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mikeb
01-03-2008, 08:39 AM
Just joined the club and hope to get involved with some of the events that take place.

I finally retired my 2001 D2 as a daily driver and have purchased some upgrade parts that i'm sure will be the first of many upgrades overtime. looking to make the D2 a very solid trail and beach truck for hunting, fishing and camping purposes.

initial upgrade: 2" OME lift, new wheel arches, new grill, spare relo, OME stering stablizer. Next is either a TJM or ARB front bar, front skid and dif gaurds. Then lights!

My question is: i have purchased the OME 2" lift kit and preparing to install. My goal is is to fit a set of 265/75/16's. based on your experience, any issues with this size tire under this lift?

Thanks - Mike B, schwenksville PA

rvrsrvc
01-03-2008, 09:53 AM
I would have recommended Rovertym springs over the OME, but they'll serve you well.
Please, please, please check them out before buying bumpers! www.rovertym.com
After you've looked at Steve's stuff, ask questions and I'll gladly offer opinions!
We're running 305/70/15 on Derek's DII with 2" RTE springs. 285/75 will also fit and both are 33" diameter. 265/75 will fit easily.
I don't know if he has any pix on the gallery, although he has been to several of the Trials with that set-up.
Welcome to the Club!
Trevor

kirkt
01-03-2008, 11:54 AM
Welcome!

If you plan to install a heavy duty front (and rear) bumper, especially with a winch, plan to install an appropriate OME (or other, Rovertym for example) set of springs now, even if you do the bumper and winch later. I haven't had my D2 for a few years now, but if I recall correctly, the suggested OME front springs for the D2 were the 779s - I installed these with an ARB front bumper (pretty much the only option available at the time - in 2000) and a Warn winch and the front end was like a snowplow. It hit everything offroad and generally just had a terrible approach angle. I replaced the front springs with OME 751s, the HD springs for the 110, and everything was much better. I ran Dunlop RTs, Bridgestone Dueler MTs and Interco Trxus, all 265-75 R16 and had no problems with rubbing, even with the full articulation afforded by this relatively modest but adequate setup. Every once in while I would get some rubbing on the driver side front wheel arch area with the steering turned full stop and full articulation - this is the area that you will need to protect when you replace your front bumper, as it contains the windshield washer fluid reservoir and pumps - I made a skid plate thingy and bolted it to the bumper and wheel arch. If you install a Rovertym, you will need to relocate the reservoir, I think (no biggy).

Too make a long story short, figure out how you would like to ultimately configure your rig and, even if you do it piecemeal, do it correctly the first time. Do check out Rovertym for sure - I would have gone that route had their stuff been available back in the day.

Good luck - Trevor can definitely help you out, give him a call. Trevor - post your number!

Kirk

mikeb
01-03-2008, 02:03 PM
Thanks guys - big help. your response is why clubs/forums are such a great thing.

The OME springs i got are HD with the thought of a bumper/winch set up in the near future. I will definitely look at rovertyme before adding anything else.

I am looking at the following tires:
- dick cepek mud country
- yokohama geolanders
- interco trxus
- cooper discoverer STT
- Toyo open country
- as well as BFG's and Goodyear

my truck will be 70% road and 30% off-road, so i wanted a decent MT but also something that will hold up on the pavement.

any opinions good/bad on the ones i listed or am over looking other brands?

thanks again

Frank84
01-03-2008, 02:21 PM
The early '01 DII's had the CDL nipple - did you check if yours has one? If so, I'd hook that up right away. It's cheap and makes a difference.

mikeb
01-03-2008, 03:40 PM
Frank84 - sorry for my ignorance, but what is the CDL nipple? it sounds naughty !

Frank84
01-03-2008, 04:56 PM
Frank84 - sorry for my ignorance, but what is the CDL nipple? it sounds naughty !

It does sound a little naughty...

CDL = center differential lock

Some of the DII's had a center differential lock built into the transfer case but they were not hooked up to the transfer case shift lever like on the older DI's. I'm not sure how familiar you are with lockers, but locking the center diff will force both front and rear driveshafts to turn at the same speed which will give better traction and cut down on the amount of work traction control will have to do.

Locking it will also help with steering control when backing down a steep, loose hill. When the front becomes unweighted and you apply the brakes the front tires lock up before the back and become useless for steering you. When you lock the center diff it will force the front and rear to turn at the same speed allowing some steering control.

If you break a driveshaft/axle/diff it will also let you drive home on the other one (as long as the shaft didn't break inside the hubs on a DII). Remove the broken parts, lock the CDL and continue on home. There's a little more to it than that - but that's the short version.

Sometimes i have found it better to turn off the traction control - if you lock the diff and then restart the car the computer disables ABS/traction control. This can be helpful when you want some wheel spin to be allowed (snow/sand/etc). Also, lots of long loose hill climbs will over heat the brakes when traction control is working hard. The traction control sometimes feels like it bogs you down too. You can also just pull the ABS fuse, but I wouldn't do that without the CDL because then you'd be left with 3 open diffs.


As far as figuring out if you have the "nipple" - it might be best to just ask somebody at the next club event that you go to to check for you. It is easy to find if you know what you're looking for, but tough to describe to someone that doesn't. I know there is a picture of it floating around, maybe somebody will post it. If you don't have the nipple, you can swap in a transfer case that does. If you do have the nipple, there are a bunch of different ways of hooking up a lever to it to make is easier to lock it - worry about that when you get there.

kirkt
01-03-2008, 05:10 PM
my truck will be 70% road and 30% off-road, so i wanted a decent MT but also something that will hold up on the pavement.

any opinions good/bad on the ones i listed or am over looking other brands?

thanks again

The Bridgestone Dueler MTs that I ran were great offroad and wore and drove extremely well on road. Check Tire Rack for prices.

You said you have the OME HD fronts, but that's what the 779s were that did not do the job for me, I believe. Check the number just to make sure.

Re: The CDL nipple - it is best to check for it when your truck is cold (i.e., you haven;t started it and heated the exhaust pipes and transmission case). Believe me. :) If you are not familiar with DiscoWeb, do a google search and go to the Tech section to get some ideas on various CDL linkage options. I built one similar to the DIY done by Greg Davis (if that post is still on the DWeb Tech Section).

Here is a pic of my old truck - the CDL actuator is the yellow doorknob looking thingy next to the tranfer case lever (the yellow knob is a Series 4wd lever knob). Twist the knob a quarter turn clockwise and, voila, CDL locked.

http://kirkt.smugmug.com/photos/33004426-L.jpg

Here is a link to a gallery of pics of my old rig to give you an idea of what I did, etc. 2000 D2 SD.

http://kirkt.smugmug.com/gallery/748716#33004398

Kirk

I live in Berwyn - not too far from Schwenksville if you need any assistance while doing any thises and thats to your rig. Plan on coming out to Robesonia trials in the spring!

mikeb
01-03-2008, 05:21 PM
Thanks frank - after your post, i went snooping around to see what you meant. I knew of CDL options for locking, but never knew about the nipple on the 2001's. it seems that only some of the early '01 may have this. i'll have to reach up under the tcase and see if in can feel the 3 nuts that mean i have this.

i found a lot of info on various options to engage the cdl. i will report back after i find out if i have that "naughty nipple".:D

rvrsrvc
01-03-2008, 10:56 PM
I've fitted a number of the electronic CDL servo kits from Bill Davis at www.GreatBasinRovers.com
Uses a blank switch port on the instrument binnacle so it looks stock.
My number is 410 227 2523
Rovertym is supposed to sound like rovertyme, but the way it's spelled, it's rovertim. And nobody there is named Tim.
Tyres are all over the place. My opinion: they are consumable off road, so having the expensive latest and greatest has it's drawbacks if you puncture I sidewall on the first day out! I run 34x9 Skinny Super Swampers from Interco that have all of the drawbacks associated with bias ply mudders-flaat spot when cold, noisy, reduced wet pavement traction, pretty well torn up on the East Coast rocks, but great in the mud.
I run Bridgestone REVO a/t's (235/85/16) on my 2" 95 SWB Rangie and many customer's Rovers. As well as BFG, Goodyear, Dunlop, and Truxxxs. Going to try 235/85/16 Kumho's on my Series and the 88" that's in the body shop

03springer
01-08-2008, 10:28 AM
Heres a pic of a CDL nipple. Just checked my 01 D2 this past weekend. Build date on drivers door was 11/00 Got a flashlight and an inspection mirrow and got underneath and looked and I have the CDL nipple. Now checking which way to go on the linkage.

Bob

03springer
01-08-2008, 10:30 AM
Sorry, Here it is

rvrsrvc
01-08-2008, 01:48 PM
Oooh, new clean parts!

03springer
01-08-2008, 04:52 PM
Got the pic from Disco Mike on another forum if you ever heard of him. I heard alot of beef about that pic. Don`t show it to my range rover! It thinks it is that clean!! Stuff like that!!!! LOL

lr03nj
01-14-2008, 10:13 PM
Hi,
I have a D2 year 2003 and I dont think I have a CDL. Is it possible to add a CDL if I dont have that option? - Gerry

rvrsrvc
01-14-2008, 10:24 PM
The nipple in the pic is just the external portion that makes the CDL function.of the mechanism. There are internal shift forks and levers, detent springs and balls that are necessary to make it work. No idea if a non-cdl is pre-drilled etc. to fit the pieces in it. Still, it's a bench job. Don't know the cost of the individual pieces versus buying a reman t-case from AB or Rovers Down South.
Plus the cost of the external linkage/solenoid kit.
Doesn't mean it can't be done, it's just not a small commitment. But, very well worth it. Maybe Derek can chime in on how he likes his GBR CDL on his D2?

lr03nj
01-14-2008, 11:34 PM
The 2004 Disco2 is the only Disco2 that comes from the factory with a CDL shifter, and what an effective and smooth mechanism it is. We have heretofore advocated the fitment of a Disco1's CDL shifter as the most elegant and quasi-factory method to lock the Disco2's transfer box. However, we now opine that the 2004 Disco2's CDL shifter is a far superior method and is really the only way to fly. The cable-actuated 2004 CDL shifter is noticeably smoother in operation than the hard linkages employed on the Disco1 CDL shifter and the lack of hard linkages noticeably attenuates drivetrain noise and vibration inside the vehicle. Our CDL Kit is composed of all Land Rover Genuine Parts and contains everything one needs to lock one's CDL-ready transfer box, including the shifter knob, 2004 CDL shifter body, cables, fasteners, and other appurtenances. (Not included is the 2004 CDL placard, as this part is not available separately through Land Rover parts channels.) If your transfer box is not CDL-ready, i.e., not readily lockable, our CDL Kit is not suitable for you. Rather, our CDL Kit is for the Disco2 that already has a readily lockable transfer box but lacks the means to lock it.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/discovery/DSC02101.jpg

Is the nipple the one with 3 bolts around a semi triangular housing?
I checked EE, my shifter is not like this (pict above) But is the option good for the 2003 Discos too. Thanks - Gerry

03springer
01-15-2008, 08:50 AM
Gerry, Yes to your first question. Has a threaded rod in the center for the linkage to connect to. Your best bet for a 03 is to replace the whole transfer case. Try contacting these guys if interested. www.roverlandparts.com I need to get on the list for the linkage from a 04 so I can hook mine up :D

Bob