Boosting brake on a Series

[crazyfish]

The frame swap is getting closer and I'd like to upgrade to boosted brakes. I'd like to get all the parts ready to be installed - what have you got?

[solihull109]

The question should be , what don't you have?
I have quite a bit of stuff, let me know what you need.:)

[Rusty and Tad]

I've got nothing but I hope you post pictures as you progress. I keep thinking if you can do it than I can do it! ;)

[solihull109]

The frame swap is getting closer and I'd like to upgrade to boosted brakes. I'd like to get all the parts ready to be installed - what have you got?
If you ... " offer" some fine brew, I might even bend up a full stainless brake line kit for you!:)

[firemanshort]

Are you looking for parts?

I have a pedal box / tower with a master cylinder and booster. These were taken off a 1980's era Stage One TACR (air field fire engine) that was parted out to support a new life for my Stage One.

I saved this part for a rainy day - but the sun has shined pretty reliably on me (are far as brakes go).

I am not sure about the specifics of your project but this part should fit any Series class vehicle.

Parts located not too far away in Virginia.

[crazyfish]

Yes, parts first then help installing it :)

Ok flatlander, I'll save up some some brews for ya. This is all going on a early series IIa 109 Station wagon that has the original brake system. All the parts are new, so if someone wants dibs on them, let me know.

[solihull109]

OK, but the on the new frame, you'll need all new lines correct?.. and I 'll bring ya some Gritty's Black Fly stout, ...

[siiirhd88]

Firemanshort has the main part you need, being the pedal, tower and booster with the dual master cylinder.

Your early Series likely has the single line system, but you can the use the later dual master for safety. You don't need the block with the brake differential warning light switch, since you usually know when the pedal goes soft. IIRC, the front outlet on the dual master goes to the rear brakes, and the rear outlet goes to the front brakes. For the front brakes I have used the 3 way brass brake line 'T' fitting from the top of a rear diff, and bolted it to the front chassis below and forward of the master cylinder. The line from the master cylinder is led to one port of the 'T', and the other two ports led to each front brake. The rear line is led from the other master cylinder port directly to the line to the rear diff and brakes.

The late tower should have the mechanical brake light switch on the tower, instead of the early hydraulic switch. If you want to retain the hydraulic switch, you can use a brass 4 way brake connector at the front brakes instead of a 3 way 'T'. The switch should thread into the available port.

Not that some of the brass 3, 4 and 5 way fittings can have ports machined for single flares or double flares (innies or outies), and can have both types on the same fitting. I have found that my local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts store carries British brake lines with fittings. I sometimes buy the lines just for the fittings.....

You will need to enlarge the bulkhead opening for the brake pedal and tower, since the pedal opening is longer. You might have to cut the top of the wing to clear the booster and master cylinder. I know you do on a RHD truck, but I've never converted a LHD.

I can give you the demensions for the bulkhead pedal opening if you need them.

Bob

[crazyfish]

oops, someone can have my newish old brake system....

On the NEW FRAME, there is stock single circuit brake lines installed but not to the brake pedal and I'll have to look at the splitters...

Soli, when are you coming this way?

Bob, whew that's good info. Damn, I hate to cut the bulkhead because it's galvanized, but send off the dimentions and I can take a look.

[solihull109]

Interesting, I didn't have to cut/modify the wings,..just did one.
I'd like to see these dimensions as well.
Suckerfish .. should be down very soon
Oh, and since you also drive a D2, did you know that a D2 with a td5 gets 31.7 mpg?:D .. go ahead and ask how I know.....:)

[siiirhd88]

The early bulkheads have pedal cutouts that are the same size for the brake and clutch pedals. The early brake and clutch pedals pivot so that the pedal rod pushes back into the master cylinder, with the master cylinder mounted on the aft side of the pedal towers. The boosted brake pedal works opposite, with the pedal rod pushing forward into the brake master cylinder / booster, which is mounted on the front side of the pedal tower. The bulkhead opening for the boosted pedal is the same width as the non boosted, but the opening is longer into the footwell. The very early Series wing tops are not as "tapered" as the later trucks, and would have more area covered by the bonnet as they near the bulkhead. These wings need to be cut to clear the master cylinder and booster since they are on the front side of the tower, away from the bulkhead. I know the late SIIA and SIII wings don't need to be cut.

A Defender boosted pedal tower will bolt in place of the Series tower, but the spacing for the Defender booster mounting studs is different than the Series booster, so you'd need a Defender (larger) booster. The 90's Jeep Cherokee booster looks to be a close fit to the Series tower, with a slight elongation of the mounting holes needed. I still need to check the pedal attachment, however.

I should be able to post pics and hole cutout demensions tomorrow.

Bob

[Tdi Guy]

i tried to install a d-90 tower and nas booster in my series but it him the bonnet.. i ended up using a d-90 clutch tower and series brake tower. then fabed a custom d-90 brake pedal to match the clutch...looks really nice. I like the smaller defender pedals ...

[siiirhd88]

The bulkhead opening for the boosted pedal tower is 8 1/8 inches long and 2 1/4 inches wide, the same width as the non boosted opening. The top edge of the opening is 1 1/2 inches from the vertical section of the bulkhead. The same six mounting bolts are used.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/brakehole1.jpg

The non boosted pedal openings are the same size for the brake and clutch pedals.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/brakehole2.jpg


The early wings don't have the cutout for the boosted brake master.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/wings1-1.jpg


The early wing is on the left, the later on the right.

Bob

[galen211]

Oh, and since you also drive a D2, did you know that a D2 with a td5 gets 31.7 mpg?:D .. go ahead and ask how I know.....:)

You read it in a book?:p :D

[spechols]

You read it in a book?:p :D
He don't read yet!!!!!!!

[solihull109]

You read it in a book?:p :D
Good one, but no. I spoke with 6 different owners of such vehicles,.. and that's the average if you're not heavy on the right foot. So, guess what's going in my D2?:rolleyes: :D

[solihull109]

He don't read yet!!!!!!!
You're soooo right

[Tom109]

...and I'd like to upgrade to boosted brakes. ?

Sean - you can add a remote boster to a single circuit system and leave your wings alone. This is what I am doing with my 109 (just need to find a Clayton Dewandre rebuild kit). It all depends if you are after the dual-circuits or just boost...

Tom

[Trevor]

Oh, and since you also drive a D2, did you know that a D2 with a td5 gets 31.7 mpg? .. go ahead and ask how I know.....

I'm assuming this mpg is calculated using Imperial gallons (~1.2 U.S. gallon), which still yields impressive fuel economy over a V8, but may not quite warrant the cost of an engine swap. If it is indeed Imp. gallons, it converts to approx. 26.4 miles per U.S. gallon. If it's not, that's awesome fuel mileage!

-TII