Modding my D-1

[Rob P]

Ok, now that Nicole has her '04 Disco I have the green light to scratch and use my '96 D-1 for 'wheelin.

Suggest some easy and effective mods for me on the cheap end of things please. Things like airdam trimming etc.......

[pushngo]

I have a bumper that has been cut and a set of 3" RTE springs and solid motor mounts, a 2 u-joint drive shaft to replace your roto flex and some 265/75's or 34s on 8" steelies, you can just push out the rear panels if you run up to a 265s

Let me know how far you want to go I have some other stuff that will come available after MAR

[Frank84]

Here's my suggestion:

1. Make sure your truck is in good, reliable :rolleyes: order before taking it into the woods. Also, make sure all the needed features work correctly and know the basics of how and when to use them. Diff lock and low range are often not tested until people get to the trail head which can be a cause of serious frustration.

2. Make yourself a tool kit for the truck with all the common tools you would use regularly on it. Carry extra fluids (all of them!) and your old set of spark plugs, wires, air filter, etc. Little things like duct tape and hose clamps can save the day.

3. I'd suggest some strong recovery points front and rear. Perhaps JATE rings up front after cutting the air dam and a trailer hitch tow point of your choice for the rear.

4. Diff guards are a good early buy - if the budget is tight do the front first. Buy them BEFORE you dent them.

5. Like Randy suggested, springs and tires are excellent purchases and good things to find second hand from people "upgrading". I've seen upgraded steering links and rock sliders come in handy as well, but with more conservative driving you can hold off on those for a while.

Before buying too many accessories, try the truck out as is. I think you'll be surprised what it can do with a little skill. Then add things on as you increase the trail difficulty you're comfortable with - but at the same time try to form an "end goal" for the truck so you're not buying stuff twice.

[Rob P]

Everything works (except for ABS and A/C and Rear Windows and cruise control)

I'll get together a "kit" for adventures away from home before going on a serious outting. Cruising through the lawn (at my house anyway) doesn't rate a gallon of antifreeze.

Did take it through the fall '07 Robesonia course. It'll do some neat things that's for sure.

Anybody have experience with removing the front and rear sway bars?

I'd like to match vehicle ability to armor. Tow Hooks are on my list.

Front Diff and rear diff cover armor are needed I know and fairly cheap. Trevor advised weld on over bolt on.

Randy, are these things you list all for sale or all on your vehicle?

OK, enough ranting, bedtime.

[pushngo]

It is on parts trucks mainly some like the springs are in boxes Let me know what is of interest and I'll get you a price.

And yes diff guards are probablythe first thing I would do also.

[Frank84]

Anybody have experience with removing the front and rear sway bars?



My classic didn't come with them from the factory and I took them off my dad's DII years ago after putting the OME suspension on. The DII's with rear air suspension came with a thicker rear sway bar that really limited suspension travel. The DI's and RRC's are thinner and aren't as restrictive.

My suggestion would be to leave them on with the stock spring/shocks. When you upgrade the springs and shocks take them off and see if it makes a difference.

[pushngo]

It makes a difference if you have it set up to droop but I agree I would not remove them with stock springs and shocks

[Trevor]

FWIW, I have 2" RTE springs on my RRC with OEM sway bars installed and I still get enough articulation for the springs to dislocate.

[Disco96JSWB]

Hi Rob,

Here’s my list of recommended modifications:

1. Weld-on diff cover (front only)
2. RTE steering links and relocated (OME) steering damper
3. Eliminate rear rotoflex driveshaft
4. 1.5-2” lift via springs (not shocks unless yours are worn out, at which point start a new thread on Bilsteins vs OME vs others)
5. When the time comes for tires, go 235/85
6. I had my sway bars on and off 5+ times before I left them off for good (but only after upgrading springs)
7. Remove front air dam and cut bumper ends to match with hacksaw
8. A front recovery point is essential

At this point, you’ll be able to keep up with most groups of Rovers, although you may be working harder than some.

- Jeremy

[Rob P]

Good points Jeremy, I'll try to implement some of them as time/money allows. Right now four wheeling is a backseat hobby as keeping the family takes most of the time/money available.

Evolution takes time and so will this....