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jcwales
01-05-2009, 08:18 PM
Just purchased a 1982 series 3 stage 1 109 RHD this week. Ordered a new door top to get things going. When the vehicle is cold it takes an extremely long time to warm up enough so that i dont have to keep the choke pulled out or keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling on me. When I first start driving it it is sluggish and bogs down while shifting gears, but once driven and warm it drives, shifts and idles nicely. Also when shutting it off after the engine is off , it will continue to knock or buck for a few seconds, any suggestions to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Located in Manahawkin NJ near LBI. Cheers

rvrsrvc
01-05-2009, 08:28 PM
Refresh my memory- a Stage 1 is a v8 with twin strombergs?

jcwales
01-05-2009, 08:50 PM
yes sir that is correct

Disco96JSWB
01-05-2009, 09:01 PM
My first car had a pair of Stromberg 175 CD2's. There were plastic covers on the side about the size of a finger that housed bimetallic springs intended to compensate for temperature. I must have had them apart 100 times in the three years I drove that car (Volvo 142). They never worked well.

Any chance of swapping the intake manifold over to something that'd accept a small Holley (or similar) carb? All those MGB guys who swap in a Rover/Buick V8 must have all this (non-fuel injection) stuff figured out.

How about some pictures of this truck? My dad keeps a little sailboat down in Forked River, not too far from where you are.

- Jeremy

rvrsrvc
01-06-2009, 10:15 AM
Oh yeah the emissions compensators or some such. It seems, when compared to a modern emission control engine, that eliminating those wont make much of a difference in tailpipe emissions, and is a reasonable course of action. Really, no matter what one does, that engine is not going to ever have a responsible emissions program.
I recently fitted an Eldebrock Performer aluminum intake and carb to a 110 3.5 Ran very well and strong. Carb can be purchased with a manual choke or electric. I had to reroute the heater hoses and drill the t-stat housing for a water nipple, but it was a pretty good bolt on.
Ck with Mark at D and D Fab in Michigan.

mlp141
01-06-2009, 10:36 AM
JC -- I cannot offer any help with your truck. However, I want to welcome you to the club since you live next door! I am in Barnegat.

rvrsrvc
01-06-2009, 08:08 PM
Heehee, oh yeah, welcome to the club!

siiirhd88
01-06-2009, 10:12 PM
Welcome! Another V8 Series owner!

I've never had much luck with Strombergs, and always replaced them with SUs when I could. An SU HS6 would be the 1.75" replacement for your Strombergs, but you would need to find ones with the float bowls at the right angle. You could also fab a set of wedge plates to mount carbs that have the incorrect float bowl angle, but that is a PITA.

I run the Edelbrock Performer intake with a Holley 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb on both of our 3.9 V8 powered Series. The carbs have been relatively trouble free, only having a bit of fuel bowl percolation in the summer. Heat shields and phenolic spacers below the carb have helped. The recommended Holley by the MGB V8 crowd is the 390 cfm vacuum secondary, but theyare a bit pricey. The 600 cfm is too much carb, but is cheaper and being vacuum secondary works fine. Offenhauser also made a 4V intake, but they are more difficult to find. Your other options are using the factory Buick 225 V8 intakes in 4V or 2V. I think I will try a 2V Holley on a 2V to 4V intake adapter, in the interest of economy.

Bob

rvrsrvc
01-07-2009, 12:45 PM
HAHAHAHHAHAHa: He said "Economy"!

flippedrover
01-07-2009, 02:47 PM
Well we are stimulating the economy by constantly having to replace faulty parts

pbmonk
03-01-2009, 09:27 PM
Could the long warmup be due to a thermostat stuck open. My diesel took forever to warm up and turned out not to have a thermostat at all! With the thermostat back in it was much warmer.

Peter