Series Starter Switch

[crazyfish]

So the Short Bus won't start. Charge the battery, no start. Get a new battery. No start. Charge the new battery. No Start. When I press the button, I get one "turn" of the starter and nothing. Lights work etc. Go to check the bell crank to make sure it's not stuck and to pretend I'm actually doing something... burnt the hell out of my thumb. At first I thought I got shocked, but the blister proved otherwise. I call Evan and of course he knew what happened. Soooooo, the starter switch is hot all the time, nice way to scare me....

I'm not sure if I fried the starter yet, but got the switch out. Turns out it's sealed so I can't even take a peek inside. I think I'll break it open just to look anyway.

Anyone have a good switch lying around? I'd be happy to pay for it, unless you think it would be better to head to NAPA or get a new one. I tend to want to keep things stock, but this isn't high on the list.....

[Rob P]

Stock and dead vs. modified and driveable?

Hmm, tough choice.

Keep the broken part for the museum that buys your Rover in 30 years.

[siiirhd88]

I think I have a new one in the pile, but it will be a day or two before I can check.

Bob

[siiirhd88]

I didn't find the new one (I know its here somewhere) but I did find a used one I can send along. PM your address.

Bob

[siiirhd88]

Rob,

The start pushbutton on Sean's truck is not just a button, it takes the place of the starter solenoid. When the button is depressed, you mechanically close contacts from the battery to the starter. The full starter current goes thru the switch. There is no direct easy replacement from the local Auto Zone.... The start pushbutton assembly can be replaced with a solenoid and electric pushbutton. The easiest would be to use a '60's Ford remote solenoid mounded to the bulkhead. An electric pushbutton can be wired from power either hot all the time if you want to be able to crank the truck with the key off, usually a solid brown wire in the standard circuit, or a solid white wire from the ignition switch if you want the truck to crank only with the key on. Run the other wire from the button to the 'S' terminal on the Ford solenoid. The 'I' terminal on the solenoid would be unused.

Bob

[Rob P]

Series trucks...so many little tid bits of unusual data.

[crazyfish]

I came home on friday and a package was sitting on my porch. Inside was a NOS switch! Evan came over and we installed it, fixed a few other things ( like the bulkhead ) wired up the winch, and it's now up and running.....

While waiting for Evan, I thought I take the old drivers side window off and replace it with the new Rocky Mountain one that's been sitting around for two years. Unbolt it and of course it's stuck. Take a hammer to the bolts and on the first hit, the window shatters. Never seen that before...

Of course, now I can't find the hardware for the new window......

[Rob P]

I know a guy who will be wearing a duster for wet weather driving for awhile then.

[Lyle4LClover]

My series has the original "push button" "close the contacts directly to the starter motor from the battery" switch too. I thought it was bad awhile ago but read somewhere in the stack of old LRM, LRO and LRE magazines to just spin it whilst pushing and it will make contact. Been doing it ever since. So far it has worked. Always sounds like the battery is dead and it's barely cranking, but it starts every time. Would really like to know where that OEM switch you got came from though. I think I'd like a spare!
Lyle