Rear Propeller Shaft / 1999 D2

[DiscoDaze]

My rear propeller shaft is starting to make noise. What would be the best course of action. Rebuild with new U-Joints and a new rubber dampener or a complete new shaft.
Atlantic British sells the rebuild parts for approx. $180 but they also offer a complete new aftermarket shaft for $329. Has anyone re-built their rear prop shaft? I'm open for advice on the best way to go.

[siiirhd88]

The best course of action? Easiest might be to replace the rubber coupling and front U joint. If you need a shaft you can have my old one.....

I've replaced the rubber joint rear driveshaft with a Range Rover Classic type shaft that has U joints on both ends. You need to swap out the three bolt differential flange to a four bolt flange, but the flange kits are available from several sources. Just make sure your flange kit includes the required spacer.

I've done our '02 DII SD using the rear shaft from our '96 D1 that had already been converted, and have another shaft and flange kit to do our '02 DII SE. The hardest part is removing the rusty / stuck cap over the diff flange bolt. I used a slide hammer and a bit of heat to loosten the cap, but there are other methods.

Bob
'02 DII SD
'02 DII SE Kalahari
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[pushngo]

I have the conversion to u-joint kits here for $135

4 bolt flange, spacer and RR drive shaft

[DiscoDaze]

Where are you located? I will go with your conversion kit. Thanks
deanfs@verizon.net

[siiirhd88]

Randy is located in downtown Lancaster, Pa. From Elkton you'd likely be heading into town on 222N from Willow Street and the shop is just as you enter town. Not a long trip from Elkton.

Bob

[pushngo]

I can bring it to Robesonia or if you want to install it on the way up or back we can do that too The centering pins can be a lot of fun without the right tools

[DiscoDaze]

Decided to go with a strait re-build of the drive shaft with a new after market UV joint and Rotoflex from Atlantic British. Since only have a 1.5 inch lift the double UV is not nessesary. If I ever go 2+ inches then I will do the new double UV joint drive shaft. Very strait forward job. 3 hours total. Used a brass drift to remove the old joint and install the new one. Don't buy snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight. They suck. The centering seal needed an hour to remove as I had to build a puller for it. It did not want to come out as it has been in for 13 years. The aftermarket RotoFlex from Atlantic British is actually the same as the LR OEM part. Same manufacturer only it costs $50 less than the same part that comes in the Landrover box. The RotoFlex also comes with new hardwear even though that is not adverised when you buy it. I changed the nuts securing the shaft to the transfer case with A4 stainless steel lock nuts with flat washers. The original 8.8 nuts were corroded and hard to remove. The change in grade should not matter as this connection is always in shear and will never see strech as the drive shaft has a sliding joint. Changed the front drive shaft with a new Pro-Line from Rovers North. I'm a little worried that the double cordon joint does not have greaseable UV joints though the fwd UV joint does. I will rebuild this shaft with geaseable UV's in two or three years. Had to buy an extended grease nipple for the fwd UV joint becuase you cannot get the grease gun on the short nipple it does not fit between the UV joints. My rebuild UV joint for the aft drive shaft came with an extended grease nipple. I was immediatly supprised at the sounds and vibrations that disapeared with the drive shaft overhauls. These things build up slowly over the years to the point that they go unnoticed and seem normal. I am very pleased with the results. I did not realize just how bad it had gotten. Would reommend this overhaul for any Disco II owner with more than 100K on their truck.

Next I will address the many oil leaks that have developed over the past year. Oil Sump. Valve covers & Transfer case.

"If your Disco is not leaking than it is empty"

DiscoDaze