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Trevor
06-18-2012, 08:14 PM
I got to the "turn the key" stage of putting things back together this evening. Once the fuel got there, it fired right up. The problem was the starter never disengaged. I immediately turned the key off and the engine stopped but the starter kept cranking until I pulled the negative lead from the battery terminal.

I'm assuming this has to be a problem with the starter/solenoid. Before I pull the starter off the parts truck, is there anything else that can be causing this? A relay perhaps?

Rob P
06-18-2012, 09:05 PM
It could be the starter solonoid, contacts could have welded together.

siiirhd88
06-19-2012, 05:30 AM
It could also be the ignition switch. Check for voltage on the wire that actuates the solenoid , it should be on its own terminal on the starter solenoid. I'm not sure if it is still white with a red tracer on the newewr Rovers but that is the typical color on Brit cars. When the key is in 'start' it will energize the coil in the solenoid, closing the contacts that Rob discussed.

Bob

Trevor
06-19-2012, 08:58 AM
If the solenoid contacts were welded together wouldn't the starter begin to crank as soon as the battery is hooked up? It does not energize until I turn the key to "start".

I'll check to see if the low amperage side of the solenoid is remaining energized with the key removed. I guess I can do this without the all the grinding by pulling the fuel pump relay? If it's the ignition switch, what would cause it to keep the "start" circuit closed even after the key is removed, but allow the circuit to open when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected?

Frank84
06-19-2012, 04:18 PM
You should be able to rule out the starting circuit and narrow things down to just the motor/solonoid itself fairly easily. In addition to the actual keyed switch, it could be the relay.

Disconnect the "small" wire on the solonoid and jump the terminal. I've had good luck using an adjustable wrench since you can set the opening of the wrench to the right amount to span from the small terminal on the solonoid to the big terminal on the starter. Put the key to the "ON" position and when you jump it if it still has the issue it is the starter/solonoid itself. If not, then it is time to start looking at the relay and switch. I'd suspect the relay before the switch simply because mine has gone bad before.

If it is the starter/solonoid, give it a few good whacks with a hammer - it might just be mad at you for letting it sit so long.

Trevor
06-19-2012, 09:12 PM
You should be able to rule out the starting circuit and narrow things down to just the motor/solonoid itself fairly easily. In addition to the actual keyed switch, it could be the relay.

Disconnect the "small" wire on the solonoid and jump the terminal. I've had good luck using an adjustable wrench since you can set the opening of the wrench to the right amount to span from the small terminal on the solonoid to the big terminal on the starter. Put the key to the "ON" position and when you jump it if it still has the issue it is the starter/solonoid itself. If not, then it is time to start looking at the relay and switch. I'd suspect the relay before the switch simply because mine has gone bad before.



Thanks, Frank. I had the same thought this afternoon. I don't know why I didn't think to just hot wire it earlier. I crimped a female spade onto a piece of wire long enough to reach to the battery. That way I could quickly disconnect the battery if it stuck. It didn't, so I guess I'll be looking into the relay and ignition switch.

In the meantime, I've got a couple of bigger problems to investigate. I still have an exhaust leak, but I don't believe it is exhaust manifold related, so it should be a little easier to fix. I also have a significant brake line leak. Remember I mentioned the squishy brakes? I didn't get a chance to look into it fully, but it is definitely on the left side near the air tank (roughly under the rear passenger door). Replacing brake lines is really not a job I needed right now, but that's the way it goes.

Frank84
06-20-2012, 07:11 AM
I'm taking a guess here, but I would think the starter relay would be the same as some of the others so you could just swap it with something else to try it out - or take it out and test it with a multimeter.

The brake line doesn't sound like too much fun. Do you think it rusted through? Maybe you could just replace a 2-3 foot section if that is the case instead of trying to run a whole new line.

Trevor
06-22-2012, 12:12 PM
I haven't looked in to the relay yet, but when I do, I have the LWB to pull parts off of. It has a complete (or nearly complete) set of relays and fuses.

I was planning on replacing just a few feet of the brake lines. Every time I pop the line out of its clips in order to get the flaring tool on, I find that the integrity of the line is compromised where each clip was located. I'm now going to replace the two lines going to the rear from the engine bay the whole way back to the junction on top of the rear diff. I have some extended rear brake lines I've been meaning to put on anyway, so now is the time.

I had a really tough time getting the fittings apart at both ends of the flexible lines. I assume the nuts are 17mm, but they are either under spec or have lost some diameter due to rust. None of my wrenches or sockets fit them well. A six point socket worked somewhat, but I found the real trick was to put away the mechanics tools and get out the pipe wrenches when doing plumbing on a vehicle. I found that a 14" pipe wrench works really well to support the diff mounted bracket/junction where the flexible lines attach.

Frank84
06-22-2012, 02:13 PM
Good to know on the pipe wrench. I have to replace the flex hoses on mine soon - if not this weekend, then the next for sure.

Trevor
06-26-2012, 09:29 PM
Replacing the starter relay did the trick. The brakes are now operational now as well.

Frank84
06-27-2012, 06:56 AM
Replacing the starter relay did the trick. The brakes are now operational now as well.

Nice! So, what's left to do on it to get it road worthy again?

galen211
06-27-2012, 07:16 AM
Good to see you getting back on the road. We can never have too many Trevors!

Trevor
06-27-2012, 09:38 PM
Nice! So, what's left to do on it to get it road worthy again?

Just the same thing that all of this started with... an exhaust leak. The y-pipe to exhaust manifold flange weld was broken. I re-welded the joint and thought I got everything sealed up, but I can still hear what sounds like an exhaust leak. I've been under it several times and can't feel it blowing anywhere. It may just be the cats rattling, I guess. Before I commit to a new-to-me y-pipe, I want to be sure that that is the problem.

So, I've got a little more investigating to do. It's really just the exhaust that is keeping me from having it inspected. I've been there before.

Galen, it's good to hear from you. How's life been treating you?

galen211
07-10-2012, 09:07 AM
Galen, it's good to hear from you. How's life been treating you?

Doing well. I have a 2-year old now. Sold the RRC for a "family" car and have since bought a Discovery. My daughter asks to take the Disco every time we go somewhere. Glad to see I got her started early.

I'm trying to get back to PA but no luck so far.