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Disco96JSWB
11-03-2014, 09:17 PM
1992 Range Rover County.
New project using some parts from my old '96 D1 SD.
Bought from Trevor after Russ did some rust repair work to the front floor.
Has some crusty spots but not terminal. Shiny paint but a few dents here and there.
Exactly what I was looking for to build a light-duty trail truck/weekend parts hauler.
128k miles. Really decent interior. Original condition. Mitsubishi car phone.
Overall, I love it.

So far I've worked on the steering (better but not quite good - maybe has a stiff u-joint in the column) and did the general exploration when you get a new project.
Next up is OME HD springs, OME shocks and RTE steering links from the D1.

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rvrsrvc
11-09-2014, 12:03 PM
I knew that one was a diamond in the rough. Probably going to regret letting it go, but thank goodness I have the gold one to keep me company....

Disco96JSWB
11-30-2014, 04:57 PM
OME medium springs courtesy of my brother (junkyard picked).
OME shocks from my old D1 (rear are 60039L Nitrocharger sport).
RTE steering links also from the D1.
D1 steering box and the steering shaft from my bro's GDE (one bad u-joint in the one in my truck).
Always use a little Lucas stop leak for good luck. Good stuff.
Old Hella 181 fog lights from a Saab 96 V-4 (not my favorite car of all time) wired into factory plugs using the brackets from the old (broken) air dam.

This has turned out to be a very decent truck. It's almost time to put it on the road . . .

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Frank84
12-01-2014, 08:45 AM
That thing is looking good!

Disco96JSWB
12-11-2014, 08:35 PM
Maiden voyage after registration. Runs good.

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galen211
12-12-2014, 11:21 AM
Love the license plate.

Going to get some more aggressive tires?

Disco96JSWB
12-12-2014, 11:54 AM
The irony of the license plate is that there isn't even a CDL. It was recycled from the D1.

Eventually it'll get an LT230 (bought from Randy a few years back) and 235/85 MTs, but this is a budget build. All used parts and so far the steering box was the only material expense.

galen211
12-12-2014, 04:49 PM
Off Topic but can you use a license plate that hasn't been used in a couple of years?

Disco96JSWB
12-12-2014, 05:43 PM
Off Topic but can you use a license plate that hasn't been used in a couple of years?

The (D1) registration on the plate expired earlier this year.
I checked online and saw that it was not available, which I took as meaning it was still mine.
http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/centers/vanityPlate.shtml
It's fun to play around to see what's available, although they increased the price last summer.

On a related note, but a step further off-topic, you can now use a year-specific tag for antique cars.
So my '66 Beetle has a 1966 PA plate.
As long as a plate passes the same vanity plate screen to ensure the number-letter combination is not in use, then an antique plate can be used on an antique car of the same year.

galen211
12-12-2014, 05:56 PM
Reason I am asking is that I have one of the railroad heritage plates from my old Series when I lived in PA the first time, moved to VA and now coming back I wonder if I could use it again.

VA had the same deal with the year plates. It ended in '73 and of course my Series was a '74.

Disco96JSWB
12-15-2014, 10:39 PM
Went to Elkton to see my brother's new (real) Mini Clubman on Saturday. Is it cool or what?

When I got there the right rear wheel was covered in gear oil. Investigation pointed to wheel bearing trouble. I tightened the lock nut for the 40 mile trip home - it might have been better left loose. Made it home!

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Frank84
12-16-2014, 08:50 AM
I think that bearing needs a little grease.

The mini is really cool! I've definitely never seen a real clubman before.

galen211
12-16-2014, 09:07 AM
I just replaced the bearings on the same hub, but mine wasn't quite that bad!

rvrsrvc
12-16-2014, 05:50 PM
[QUOTE=Frank84;19520]I think that bearing needs a little grease.

and a little more metal....

rvrsrvc
12-16-2014, 05:51 PM
[QUOTE=galen211;19518]Reason I am asking is that I have one of the railroad heritage plates from my old Series when I lived in PA the first time, moved to VA and now coming back I wonder if I could use it again.

on a certain S3 Sw?

galen211
12-17-2014, 09:54 AM
[QUOTE=galen211;19518]Reason I am asking is that I have one of the railroad heritage plates from my old Series when I lived in PA the first time, moved to VA and now coming back I wonder if I could use it again.

on a certain S3 Sw?

Yes indeed.

Disco96JSWB
12-21-2014, 08:17 PM
The 'bad' wheel bearing wrecked the stub axle, hub, and ABS reluctor.
The bearings pictured came out of the other ('good') side - but they weren't good.
I will not take wheel bearings for granted in the future.

A new thermostat got the heat working much better.

Trying to get beyond the stage where 'hours spent working on it' > 'hours spent driving it'

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Disco96JSWB
12-23-2014, 10:24 AM
Jake drove the RaRo yesterday and then to skool today. What's better than an RRC in a high school parking lot? (He would say a D2.)

It has an intermittent flat spot that could be the TPS (throwing code 71) or maybe the stepper motor. I think I can borrow a known-good TPS and I read about how to test the stepper motor.

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Frank84
12-24-2014, 08:33 AM
You need to get some mud on that.

rvrsrvc
12-24-2014, 10:04 AM
Come over to my place: it's warm and wet enough that the surface tension on the ground is like grease. One could be muddy in no time.....

Disco96JSWB
12-28-2014, 04:43 PM
The RaRo has an oil leak that's gotten pretty severe. Definitely oil and not antifreeze.

Seems to originate at the top of the oil pump cover (high up on the front of the block on the passenger side just under the water pump).
Don't believe it originates in either of the two places I had thought most likely (crankshaft seal or oil pressure sender).
It's also not either of the oil cooler lines.

Anybody have any advice?

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devildog01
12-28-2014, 06:16 PM
Buy another lr3.

Disco96JSWB
12-28-2014, 10:37 PM
Buy another lr3.

Ok, but I need to fix the RRC first.

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rvrsrvc
01-01-2015, 06:49 PM
I don't see the leaky area, unless it's that oil on the block at the pan in the first picture? I'd give it a good cleaning with like an aerosol brake clean or a trip to the self serve car wash.

Disco96JSWB
01-01-2015, 07:33 PM
Replaced/ cleaned PCV parts and they seemed to be fine anyway.

Did as Trevor suggested at car wash and now it's easier to see the leak (although the picture - looking down from above - isn't great). This picture (looking down from above) shows the oil running down.

At first it seemed like the oil pump-to-front cover gasket but possibly it's higher up than that (which would suggest front cover gasket). If so, I will do crankshaft seal, pan gasket and water pump at the same time. Will investigate further.

I believe that now's the time to grab a Range Rover Classic. I'm having a great time with this project.

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Disco96JSWB
01-05-2015, 07:57 PM
Determined the timing cover needs to come off so we started by dropping the pan yesterday.
The bottom of the engine looks ok for 23 years and 129k miles.
I continue to have a good feeling about this truck.

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rvrsrvc
01-08-2015, 05:48 PM
Are you going to pull a main and rod cap to look at bearing conditions?

Disco96JSWB
01-11-2015, 08:58 PM
Are you going to pull a main and rod cap to look at bearing conditions?

Considered looking at the bearings but I'm sticking with the cheapskate approach and so just replacing the leaky gasket.

Speaking of which, the conversion gasket set I got was crummy quality (cheapskate approach backfire) and they neglected to even include the timing cover gasket (maybe they were too embarrassed). The crank seal was bad enough that I'm not going to use it.

A couple of bolts going through the water pump and cover had loosened causing the oil leak.

We also adjusted the disc-style handbrake assembly in Jake's D2 and it works great now. Kind of seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist but it works well. It's a good-looking rig.

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Disco96JSWB
01-13-2015, 09:26 PM
The leak was from behind the water pump tensioner pulley.
The bracket ETC6148 broke and the bolt was also broken.
The oil pump outlet into the block from the front cover is pretty much right behind it and so that caused the leak.
I'm hoping my brother has one I can borrow.
Is this a common problem? The threads in the block are fortunately in fine shape so hopefully a new bolt and bracket will be all it needs.

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Disco96JSWB
01-19-2015, 06:15 PM
I must be the slowest mechanic in existence but it's back together.
The oddball collection of fasteners for the front cover (and the water pump and various brackets) is either quaint or part of the reason they sold out to BMW (who gave up and sold out to Ford, who gave up and sold out to Tata).
Made a dowel pin for one missing for the water pump.

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devildog01
01-19-2015, 08:41 PM
When are you going to quit screwing around and put lockers and sliders on that thing?

Disco96JSWB
02-11-2015, 09:46 PM
Jake scored Interco Trxus 235/85s for the Range Rover from John Palita.

It's funny now, but I couldn't get the truck started after adjusting the drive belts until I figured out I had the ignition amplifier module connector backwards. Live and learn.

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galen211
02-12-2015, 10:17 AM
Bringing this to the cabin?

Disco96JSWB
02-13-2015, 11:33 AM
Bringing this to the cabin?

Unfortunately it's just not ready yet.
Current issue is engine intermittently cutting out under part throttle. Code 17 is 'throttle potentiometer' (aka TPS).

Disco96JSWB
02-16-2015, 08:18 PM
Removed TPS, twisted it a few times and it has been ok for 3 days.
Front recovery point/steering guard installed.
Hasn't broken down in three days.

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devildog01
02-16-2015, 09:40 PM
You need a bigger garage. Jakes D2 looks cold.

Frank84
02-17-2015, 09:51 AM
The range rover looks really small next to the the DII.

Disco96JSWB
02-23-2015, 11:32 AM
The Range Rover made it up to Spruce Cabin and back.
Jake talked me into driving it . . . "Dad, what could go wrong?"

The tires from John Palita along with chains made all the difference in getting through.
Jake installed 1" spacers for the rear bump stops because the rear shocks are OME 60039L.

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Disco96JSWB
03-08-2015, 07:32 PM
Lots of features stopped working like dome lights, radio (only one speaker ever worked), the rear wiper, and the driver's seat electric motors. I developed an elegant theory about fusible links but they looked perfectly fine when examined. Turned out to be fuse B2. Traced short to the original audio system and that sealed the decision to remove it all. The fusible link kit ($40) goes in spare parts inventory.

A headlight was bad. The Atlantic British certificate won in L-R Jeopardy at SCC went to buy a pair of Hella headlights on sale but UPS is apparently unable to make a delivery the day after a snow storm (or even the next day if it's Saturday). The original headlight bowls were powder coated and they rusted in the typical way under the powder coating. Keeping with the low-buck approach I had a pair of plastic buckets from the 88" parts truck and switched the factory wiring over. All I need is nice enough weather for UPS to deliver the headlights.

I'm having a lot of fun with this project.

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Tom109
03-09-2015, 09:26 AM
What size spare do you carry?

The tires on my LWB are 7 years old and starting to crack. They'll need replacement, but I'd like to know the largest size that will fit the stock spare location...

Frank84
03-09-2015, 10:44 AM
Nice to know the series buckets will fit right in!

Disco96JSWB
03-09-2015, 11:51 AM
What size spare do you carry?
The stock 205/80 spare is in there now to be able to keep the original cover, etc.


Nice to know the series buckets will fit right in!
It was a pleasant surprise that the repro plastic buckets work.

Disco96JSWB
03-29-2015, 05:45 PM
The sunroof needed some TLC but now works great.
The cruise control even works.

It's now doing daily driver duties and has covered 1,000 miles. Makes me smile every time I drive it . . .

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Frank84
03-30-2015, 11:21 AM
It's now doing daily driver duties and has covered 1,000 miles. Makes me smile every time I drive it . . .

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Wow, 1000 miles came fast! Drove mine to work today and the D90 all weekend.

Disco96JSWB
04-20-2015, 07:52 PM
Latest project:
With OME MD springs (used -- picked from a junkyard) it was down 1" on the front driver's side versus the passenger side, plus the rear passenger side was 1" higher than the rear driver's side.
I thought maybe I'd put the front springs in wrong (since the taller one goes on the driver's side) but when I got it apart I saw they were correct.
So I figured I'd try the Terra Firma fronts from Jake's D2 (2" D2 lift).
Turns out D2 and RRC/D1 front springs aren't completely interchangeable (the truck drooped another 1" on both sides in front and the tilt to the driver's side was still there).
I pulled the rear springs and the passenger side spring was slightly longer (maybe 3/8"), so I switched them side-to-side.
That leveled out the rear but the front was (of course) still drooping 1" on the D2 springs so I then had to reinstall the OME MD front springs and now it's close enough to being level all round.

Picture 1: Macy's Spring Collection
Picture 2: D2 Terra Firma spring in an RRC
Picture 3: Front end droop with D2 springs
Picture 4: Prior weekend swapped out Jake's axles. Friend's MG-TC who came over to watch.

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Frank84
04-21-2015, 06:45 AM
That sounds like a lot of work! Glad it is all leveled out now.

Disco96JSWB
05-16-2015, 08:02 PM
After getting it level side-to-side, the front was a little more than an inch lower than the back. (This is with OME MD springs front and back. People say the OME MD rears are actually a little taller than the HDs.) So 1/2" front spacers from the D1 went in up front to get just a 1/2" rake.

New panhard bar bushes made a noticeable difference in steering feel and were worth every penny.

After a lot of deliberation, I bought new 205/80R16 Pirelli Scorpion ATR tires. They're quiet and the on-road gearing is good. I wouldn't argue that they look kind of dorky. The old Interco TrXus 235/85 tires will go on for SCC, etc. but otherwise I'm using the little tires on the 3-spoke rims.

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Frank84
05-18-2015, 10:53 AM
That Classic keeps looking better and better! Keep it up!

Disco96JSWB
06-06-2015, 08:50 PM
Suspension is working well but the engine had a couple of issues (OBD I display code 17 indicated a bad TPS, vacuum advance diaphragm was bad, idle was a little low and lumpy).

Then, in a traffic jam in the rain on the way home from work, I tried the A/C to de-mist the windows. Bad noises followed and the alternator light came on. Having struggled with the belt kit from a popular supplier, plus a couple more alternator belts from Napa, I replaced all four with Genuine Land Rover parts from Rovers North. The difference in quality is dramatic and I won't ever use anything else.

The fuel injection system is making more sense after research. I replaced the ignition amplifier module (IAM) with Lucas ordered from England, mostly because I had it and the old one is now a spare, and also installed a Lucas vacuum advance unit. I cleaned the idle stepper motor. At this point it ran smooth and even kept code-free (no CEL) but the idle was now much too low. The tamper proof plug for the base idle setting had already been removed so I reset the base idle, cleared the ECU again, and it idles well and runs great. I'm hoping the TPS code doesn't come back because I haven't found one for less than $250 which seems outrageous.

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Tom109
06-09-2015, 01:26 PM
I have not yet touched my LWB's ignition yet. When I do I think I may go for the ignition module relocation kit.

Disco96JSWB
07-01-2015, 08:24 PM
The genuine fan belts are good, so there's a step forward.

The ignition amplifier module (IAM) replacement was a failure. It ran rough with the new one and eventually just stopped one morning on the way to work a mile from home. Jake dragged me back and I installed the relocation kit which worked great. Not sure whether the IAM was bad or the connection was bad. Auto Electric Spares in the UK has attractive prices and good service.

The rear liftgate handle lock never worked. It turns out the lock cylinder is fine but the innards of the release plunger are broken. The kit to repair it is 390982 and it's expensive.

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Frank84
07-06-2015, 01:07 PM
At least if the lock cylinder is good you shouldn't need to carry around two keys.

Disco96JSWB
08-07-2015, 09:36 AM
Been daily-driving the RRC.

1. Oil light stayed on one morning last week. Level was good and no odd noises so I drove it to work. Tried a couple of tests to see if it was the oil pressure sender and it wasn't, so I bought a new one anyway because they're pretty cheap and of course that didn't fix the problem. It turned out to be the box that reconciles signals from the oil pressure sensor and the oil level sensor (and talks to the heated rear window - not making that up). I disconnected it (see pictures below - it's up under the dash in the left corner) and everything's back to normal.

2. Bought a TPS from Paddock in England for 40% of the price from the US suppliers. It seems to have cured the problem (cutting out at low throttle opening intermittently). Once I saw that worked I connected the vacuum line to the new advance unit I'd installed. So there's another small step forward.

3. I got so confident yesterday that I tried to top off the fuel tank and when I did gas started pouring down onto the concrete at the gas station from the sides of the fuel tank. Of course, I acted as if nothing unusual had happened, and casually got in the truck. I left the door open when I started it with the idea that the (potential) explosion might blow me out of the car and away from the fireball.

So the next project, after I burn through the gas in the tank (looks like 14 mpg is about what I've been getting with the vacuum advance disconnected), will be to drop the tank. That will be a good time to start to control the rust in the rear load floor too before the decent weather comes to an end.

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Frank84
08-07-2015, 10:30 AM
Always something to fix on these! If you're going in and repairing the rust in the rear floor, you might as well make it removable for future access and you'll have an easier time de-rusting it too. I drilled out the rivets and replaced them with stainless sheet metal screws - was a pretty easy/cheap job.

devildog01
08-07-2015, 09:01 PM
Wow Frank, that's an interesting picture. Never seen a floorless rrc. Definitely a good way to rustproof your frame!

mlp141
08-07-2015, 09:25 PM
And that's why it's called the Strange Rover. =^)

Disco96JSWB
10-12-2015, 07:17 PM
The RRC has become reliable and has a spot in the garage now that the ExMOD 90 moved on to greener pastures.

New horn (low note) from England for the equivalent of $11 from Auto Electrical Spares.
Now sounds like a truck instead of a Reliant Robin (see photo).
My neighbor let me drive the Robin but I had it up on two wheels in his driveway so never again.

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Frank84
10-13-2015, 07:28 AM
Mine needs a new horn too, I can barely hear it.

What's with the camel disco in the background?

Disco96JSWB
10-13-2015, 08:22 AM
What's with the camel disco in the background?

That Disco is a fixture at John Palita's in Kennett Square . . .

galen211
10-13-2015, 08:53 AM
Is the CT a real one?

I can't look at a Robin without thinking of Top Gear.

A reliable RRC, is that an oxymoron?

Frank84
10-13-2015, 02:02 PM
A reliable RRC, is that an oxymoron?


He just needs to drive it more. It will break.

rvrsrvc
10-18-2015, 03:33 PM
I have a plastic fuel tank from my D1 that you can have.....

Disco96JSWB
10-19-2015, 09:10 AM
I have a plastic fuel tank from my D1 that you can have.....

That sounds great. Thanks. I still haven't dropped the tank to fix the overflow problem.

Disco96JSWB
12-05-2016, 10:24 PM
Dropped the tank and it turned out the fuel overflow problem out of the top of the tank was caused by a torn fuel pump gasket.

Now hoping Jake can help fix some rust issues, help with some sill protection, mount the winch and install the KAM lockers.

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jakeb44
12-06-2016, 12:17 PM
and install the KAM lockers.

I have a slightly used set I can pull out of the scrap pile if you'd like to buy them.

Tom109
12-06-2016, 10:20 PM
I love those kind of fixes. Quality time with the Rover and a simple solution.

galen211
12-07-2016, 09:25 AM
Planning to use that hidden winch mount? If I ever got a D1 or RRC again I would find one of those. Looking back at pictures of my D1 it was simple and clean.

Tom109
12-07-2016, 09:40 AM
Planning to use that hidden winch mount? Whenever I get a D1 or RRC again I will find one of those. Looking back at pictures of my D1 it was simple and clean.

Fixed if for you.

Disco96JSWB
12-07-2016, 05:20 PM
Planning to use that hidden winch mount? If I ever got a D1 or RRC again I would find one of those. Looking back at pictures of my D1 it was simple and clean.

Your old hidden winch mount is on my brother's '95 RRC.
Traded it plus cash to get my RTE bumper back from him for Jake's D2.
My old Superwinch EPi9.0 is also on Jake's truck.

Right now I have:

a Great Divide bumper but no winch mount
a Warn 8274


Open to suggestions . . .

galen211
12-08-2016, 12:33 PM
Right now I have:

a Great Divide bumper but no winch mount
a Warn 8274


Open to suggestions . . .

I could find no good solution to get my 8274 on the front of my D1. The ARB bumper was a foot forward mount, but it did not fit the winch without major modification.

Know of anybody that can weld? :rolleyes: I would modify the GDE to fit a winch and get something simple like a Warn M8000.

Tom109
12-08-2016, 04:46 PM
Jeremy,

I could only find one mating connector, which I used to make an EAS interface cable. So I just purchased a RoverGauge cable. I'll dig up the link.

I don't think I'd cut up that GDE bumper.

Frank84
12-12-2016, 06:41 PM
On the bumper/winch subject, could you do a separate mounting plate for the winch and not attach it to the bumper itself? Does your A/C work or do you intend to get it working? If you could remove the A/C components and relocate the trans cooler perhaps you could fit the winch in front of the radiator. Then maybe just do a cut out in the bumper for a fairlead. The grill will need some significant trimming I'd think.

Disco96JSWB
12-14-2016, 03:58 PM
'RaRo' has intact (but currently non-op) A/C so that's worth saving/fixing rather than removing.
The GDE bumper is straight, so maybe too good to cut up.

For now I'll focus attention on Rover Gauge and the A/C.
Maybe it's more of a classic car and ultimately less of a trail truck than was initially envisioned.

Disco96JSWB
01-21-2017, 09:05 PM
Jake drove the RRC to school but he needs a more suitable car for the commute. Before I advertise it I thought I'd mention that the RRC is for sale in case a club member is looking for a project.

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Disco96JSWB
02-19-2017, 08:22 PM
Phase II of the RRC project.

It isn't a very good 'classic car' (bad enough to think about selling) so it'll be a trail truck.

The little tires are in storage and BFG M/Ts on Disco steelies replaced them.

The 4.14 diffs from the old 5-speed D1 are going in next.

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Disco96JSWB
03-17-2017, 07:28 PM
We switched over to 24-spline diffs that had been in the D1 so the axle shafts needed to be replaced.
RTE diff guards.
The four shorter axle housing studs came as a surprise even though I had read it could be an issue (but forgot).
The inner stub axle seal confused me for a few minutes. The later style (FTC5268) was right for the new CVs.
Running air lines and wiring tomorrow.

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Frank84
03-20-2017, 09:38 AM
Looks like it is ready for the trails now!

Disco96JSWB
03-21-2017, 08:05 PM
Looks like it is ready for the trails now!

We should put together a ROVERS club day at Rausch Creek this spring . . .

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galen211
03-22-2017, 09:19 AM
I agree. Found out yesterday I can't make it to Robesonia this spring so a day at Rausch would be nice.

Did you guys have the place to yourselves?

Disco96JSWB
03-22-2017, 10:02 AM
I agree. Found out yesterday I can't make it to Robesonia this spring so a day at Rausch would be nice.

Did you guys have the place to yourselves?

There were a few groups in the parking lot, but only one other on the trails in the East and South properties. West was closed so we went down there first to take a look.

We were first rigs up Trail O hillclimb and then through 3A, 3B, 3C and K in the area below the comp course. Chains made all the difference.

Let's start a thread in the Events section and get a date set for ROVERS day at Rausch Creek.

Disco96JSWB
05-21-2017, 09:17 PM
ARB compressor mounted behind left headlight with air filter trumpet trimmed for clearance.
Broke the top off a shock (OME extended) somehow. Bent a D1 spare steelie too.

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Frank84
05-22-2017, 06:03 PM
What trail is that rocky one? (second from the right)

Disco96JSWB
05-22-2017, 09:27 PM
What trail is that rocky one? (second from the right)

It's on the blue part of C, maybe 200 feet in.
We went in through the Comp Course and then out on K which turns into C when it crosses A.

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Disco96JSWB
01-15-2018, 10:29 AM
Rovers North D2 sliders for Christmas (Black Friday discount).

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