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Tom109
05-01-2016, 09:55 AM
I need to replace the plastic top-hat piece in my Distributor, and reset the fly weights on their pivots. Looking at this top-side exploded view, I should be able to get the reluctor ring off the upper shaft...

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Can anyone fill me in on how to remove it??? I have the distributor on the bench, and this is the one hurdle preventing forward progress.




Wet, rainy day, so I guess I'll fire-up the forge and work on a new knife...

Tom109
06-14-2016, 10:07 AM
Just a follow-up to close this out. I wound-up removing the distributor and tearing-down the internals.

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I had little trouble/delay removing the reluctor ring. Once the c-clip and o-ring are removed there is slight magnetic adhesion to the shaft, to which I assumed the reluctor was threaded or pressed on. Wrong! I finally figured out that it just lifts off!

Here is a close-up of what remains of my original top-hat (LEFT), compared to the new top-hat (RIGHT).

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This is the re-assembled distributor after bench testing. I used the rebuild kit from AB to source the parts, but re-used most of my originals.

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What was the best part of this rebuilt (aside from cracking the mysticism of distributor internals)? I finally got to use this wrench, which I purchased MANY years ago, at a flea market, but never found a use for - until now! It fits the ignition module bolts perfectly!

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Frank84
06-16-2016, 02:11 PM
Thanks for posting the follow up on this Tom - I may be diving into one of these soon.

Tom109
06-17-2016, 08:48 AM
Frank,

I also wound-up going through the entire ignition system, all the way back to the key. Hey, at least I know the system now!

Let me know if you ever have any questions...

Tom

Frank84
06-17-2016, 03:04 PM
Frank,

I also wound-up going through the entire ignition system, all the way back to the key. Hey, at least I know the system now!

Let me know if you ever have any questions...

Tom

How do you make a '95 Disco run?

Cranks fine but doesn't fire up and I have fuel at the rails (not sure on the pressure number, but there is pressure). There's no spark going as far back as the HT lead from the coil to the distributor. I've swapped some parts: the HT lead (one used one), ignition coil (two used ones, one is unknown but the other was working when removed), and ignition module (two brand new Lucas ones). There's 3.2 kohm of resistance at the two contacts coming out of the distributor that go to the ign module which is good according to the manual which says it should be 2-5 kohm. There's 12 volts at the battery and I even jumped it to another running car to double check and it still won't fire. There's 11.7 volts between the "-" and ground and the "+" and ground on the coil with the key in the on position which is correct according to the book. The wires running from the distributor to the ign coil checked out good.

I have a few things I still need to poke around at, but it seems like it is the coil or the ignition module based on everything. So, maybe I have just been swapping in bad parts. Any ideas?

Tom109
06-17-2016, 03:47 PM
Frank,

I am dealing with the same thing on a '95 RRC. Mine failed Test 3, which should be 0V between the Coil(-) and the Battery (+). I did the same as you and basically traced and tested everything, including multiple coils and ign modules - even a remote ignition module relocation kit.

Where do I stand now? Well a new ignition switch is waiting for me at home (just the electrical switch part, not the key cylinder) and I'm relatively confident this will solve it. Several faults that have occurred whisper ignition switch, but when you can't get it running it's tough to track everything down. If it is the ignition switch I'm going to gut the old one, override it with switches, and throw it in the on-board spares kit...

I'll let you know what I find out.

Tom

Frank84
06-17-2016, 08:07 PM
Definitely let me know Tom.

Tom109
06-18-2016, 10:55 AM
Ok, so it's not the ignition switch. I can't help but think it has to be the ignition control module.

I'm going to trace all the wiring, again, and double-check all the grounds. Then I'll replace the ign module (again) and install a dedicated ground wire on the terminal under the sign module - local mechanic seems to think there is poor/no ground to the sign module, and I wondered why there is an unconnected spade behind the sign module.

Frank84
06-18-2016, 04:11 PM
When you say ignition control module do you mean ignition amplifier? There seem to be a lot of different names for that same part. I still think that might be the issue with my dad's Disco but I've now tried two new ones without success.

Tom109
06-18-2016, 06:15 PM
Yes, sorry, ignition amplifier. I think this is the same problem with mine.

Frank84
06-18-2016, 09:41 PM
Okay, so I think I found the problem.

I had swapped in a new ignition amplifier early on in the diagnostic phase and then left it in place. Turns out that the one I swapped in was bad, despite being a brand new part. (I swapped in a second brand new one too thinking the first one was bad - both turned out to be bad.) After I had swapped in the bad, new amplifier I then found the crack in the wire going to the distributor hiding under the boot. Swapping in a good, used wire didn't fix it since the bad amplifier was still there.

I swapped back in the old, good amplifier and kept the used, good wire. Now it runs like it should!

Onto the next problem now...but keep me posted on how you're making out.

Tom109
06-18-2016, 10:17 PM
Yeah, the wires I have are crap. All the crimped come connections are pulling off. I'll be calling AB on Monday. I never throw things out, but last Fall I did throw the old plug wires out. Not sure what brand I'll buy now.

I stopped working after the wire encounter as I wouldn't be able to actually test anything anyway. I will install the 2nd new amplifier tomorrow and wait for plug wires.

Tom109
06-24-2016, 09:53 AM
New 7mm Magnecor wires arrived Wednesday. It is hard to put words to how much higher quality they are when compared to the aftermarket "RRC" silicone 7mm that failed me (and they were only 6 months old!). I had already installed a new ign-amp, new Lucas coil, and refit the distributor. I reset everything to the stock locations (no ign-amp relocation kit for now).

Last night I traced literally every ground as well as disassembled and cleaned them up. Next I checked each circuit that could cut some portion of the ignition flow - MFU, alarm, fuel, ignition switching, starter circuit, shift interlock, inertia switch. Then I checked relays and fuses. After refitting the kick panel trim pieces i moved to the engine bay where I discovered a bad fuel injector fuse - not blown, but apparently mis-shapen, providing intermittent contact. I've never seen this before and not sure how a "fuse" can do that. I'm also not sure of the fuse was the problem, or if there is something deeper.

For not I'm going with a bad fuse. The test ride was awesome and I drove it to work today. It's loaded with tools and spares and will likely go to the Shore this weekend!

Frank84
06-25-2016, 09:38 AM
Glad you tracked down the problem Tom! I've bought the 7mm magnecore wires in the past and they are definitely better quality.

Tom109
07-24-2016, 08:14 PM
The issue returned after a long multi-destination trip, when we parked I our driveway. Good thing I didn't stop for fuel and drove straight through. All the fuses checked, but I was still distracted by that previous fuel injector fuse. I pulled all the seat trim panels and exposed everything for testing - including noid lights to prove each injector circuit. I was at a loss, no faults to be found. I went back to square one and was going to swap in a spare amp-module, but this time I decided to tray to leave the distributor in place. Low and behold the screws securing the amp-module were loose! I tightened them up, and did a fe ground path checks, then the Rangie fired right up! Whew, what a long hot day!

I put that little wrench in a ziplock labled "magic wrench". And hid it in the bottom of the cubby. I'm not going anywhere without it and a spare module.

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Frank84
07-31-2016, 05:21 PM
Glad to hear it is working Tom. I have two new modules (lucas brand) and both are bad so I'd make sure to test your spare before putting it in the tool bag.

Disco96JSWB
08-01-2016, 04:53 PM
Glad to hear it is working Tom. I have two new modules (lucas brand) and both are bad so I'd make sure to test your spare before putting it in the tool bag.

One of the two I bought works, but for how long? There must be a (cheap) way around this problem.

Tom109
08-08-2016, 09:56 AM
Where did you guys buy your modules? The one I am currently running came from AB and was Lucas branded, both the box and printed on the unit.

I want to buy two for on-board spares, and install/test run each module so I know they are good.

Disco96JSWB
08-08-2016, 03:00 PM
Where did you guys buy your modules?

Auto Electrical Spares in the UK
They have relocation kits and also just the modules
Again, the results have been mixed (and that's putting it mildly)

Tom109
08-08-2016, 06:13 PM
I have a relocation kit I purchased from them. FWIW their module was not printed in the same Lucas manner as the AB modules. I could never get it to work, but wound-up digging much deeper AND returning the a different module to the stock location. I am not 100% sure their kit was bad, but I don't think I'll ever relocate it, just keep two known spares in the truck.

Tom109
08-12-2016, 09:28 AM
A new Lucas module will arrive from AB today. I plan to mount it and run it for a few days - if all is well I'll leave it in place and put the removed "known-good" module in the on-board spares kit.

One question remains - now that everything is running well, should I re-attempt installing the relocation kit??? This relocates the module off the distributor to a plate mounted behind the coil (behind the LH Headlight on a 1995 LWB). I think the kit may be good, but the included module was bad.