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View Full Version : Engine to Bellhousing Bolts



Alvin
07-15-2006, 07:26 PM
In February I blew the engine on my Disco (dropped sleeve). I recently purchased a block in very good condition, but I have to take the camshaft from my old engine. I have cleaned the replacement engine, deglazed the cylinders, cleaned the pistons and whatnot. I finally got to working on removing the old engine today. I have all the electrical connections disconnected. Radiator and hoses are removed. Fuel lines and everything like that. Now, I start removing the engine to bellhousing bolts. I was able to take off the top two. And the bottom two. BUT when it comes to the 4 in the middle, I am stumped. I can't fit a ratchet/socket in the space between the engine and firewall. I can fit a wrench onto the bolts, but on a couple of the bolts (If I remember correctly the upper two) I can't get enough leverage to turn the wrench. And on the bottom 2, there is absolutely no space at all to turn the wrench at all. How do I get these off??? I am completely stumped. I considered removing the engine and tranny as one unit, but that looks as if it'll be even more difficult than removing these 4 bolts. I am feeling so frustrated I am almost at the point of giving up. It's been 5 months since I have used this truck (it was my daily driver). Any suggestions as to how I can get these bolts off?

Frank84
07-18-2006, 02:03 PM
i know this is not of any help, but seeing as nobody else replied...

i was at a shop day at Tom Proctor's where we removed the trans (automatic) from a DI like yours and i know those bolts were hard to get to but we got them out with some socket extention/swivel combo or just a regular wrench - we had no special tools. for some bolts i think we tilted the engine up or down a few degrees as well - just watch the fan doesn't go into the radiator (if it's still bolted together).

hopefully someone else will chime in

Alvin
07-19-2006, 07:28 AM
Frank, thank you so much. Actually, it is of great help. I was just in contact with the guy who sold me the replacement engine (Paul Grant), and he confirmed what you just told me. He uses a long extension (about 3-4 feet) with a swivel adapter, and he works from under the truck. Another guy had told me that he removes the oil pan, unbolts the motor mounts, lifts the engine slightly, removes the mounts, and then lowers the engine and he is able to get a couple of inches more clearance this way. This is essentially what you told me to do, which is tilting the engine slightly to get the clearance. Hopefully, armed with this new knowledge and a renewed will, I'll have the engine out this weekend.

Frank84
07-19-2006, 08:34 AM
good luck with the rest of the swap!