PDA

View Full Version : Kickdown Cable replacement



mll
07-20-2007, 10:55 AM
Anyone replace a kickdown cable on a 1995 LWB? Does it take a lot of work? Car seems to still run even with the cable cut.

rvrsrvc
07-20-2007, 11:03 AM
You'll have more difficulty getting the frame cross member out in order to drop the trans pan than the actual cable replacement! I usually use a 10 ton hydraulic press to get the frame to spread enough to have the cross member drop out.
And, the fluid will continue to drip long after you've removed the drain plug and pan.
I wouldn't suggest driving to long with the cable disconnected- it will cause some premature wear on some of the clutch/friction materials inside the trans.

Tom109
07-20-2007, 12:01 PM
The mechanical attachment at both ends is pretty simple. But as Trevor said, you'll have to drop the pan first. On my D1 the removable cross-member has come out OK with a little persuasion from a 5lb. hammer + block of wood. On a D1 I also need to drop the y-pipe, same on the RRC ???

Be sure you replace the trans filter while you are this far into it...

Regards,

Tom P.

Frank84
07-20-2007, 03:03 PM
On a D1 I also need to drop the y-pipe, same on the RRC ???


Y-pipe will require removal on a RRC as well - be prepared for rusted (and then broken) studs/nuts - have replacements ready if this is your daily driver as well as new manifold to y-pipe gaskets

jason
07-20-2007, 05:08 PM
Although I hate going to the dealership, unless you have a lift, a hi-lift jack, and ten hours to kill, you may want to consider it. Best $500 I ever spent.:rolleyes:

Rob P
07-20-2007, 11:40 PM
Although I hate going to the dealership, unless you have a lift, a hi-lift jack, and ten hours to kill, you may want to consider it. Best $500 I ever spent.:rolleyes:

You mean you finally got your shifting thingy straightened out? Riding with you (not on you) at Robesonia springtime with the "unusual" shifting was an adventure.

jason
07-21-2007, 08:05 AM
I figured 6 months was long enough for cruising at 4,000 rpm at 50mph and getting 3 mpg.

rvrsrvc
07-21-2007, 09:49 AM
I think one could move the crossmember and drop the pan down and back enough to fit the cable.
Yes, one would have to drop the y-pipe to fully remove the crossmember and pan. Yes, at least 3 of six studs (p/n ERR551L x6 studs, ERR4245 x6 nuts, ETC4524 gasket x2) will break at the manifold, probably flush, likely requiring the removal of the manifold to drill the broken bits out on the bench. Of course, now might be a good time to upgrade the bolts, collars and gaskets used to join the manifold to the cylinder head with the later style used on the 4.0 engines. At least the O2 sensors don't have to be removed from the downpipe as they often are difficult angles to put a wrench on and can round off easily. But the electrical connectors are tucked away at the back of the engine and hard to see.
Sounds like fun!