Swivel housing seal...

[Trevor]

... I'm pretty sure it's leaking. I haven't fully investigated yet, but I'm fairly certain that is where the reasonable flow of oil is coming from. My question is: If (when) I replace the swivel housing seal, what else should I be replacing (grease seals, bearings, etc.)?

Thanks,

TII

[solihull109]

Hi Trevor, after replacing the seal, I would use the upgraded kit( CV type grease) instead of 90 wt,...doesn't leak out... as fast

[rvrsrvc]

The seal can leak, the swivel ball can get rusty and tear up the seal or an upper or lower swivel pin can wear out creating play which will keep the seal from holding firmly against the swivel ball.
And, i have different thoughts about what lube to use in the housing: cv grease is more viscous, but 90wt can be drained out with the water that may have made it's way into the hub from an extended delay in a water crossing! I use 80/90wt with Lucas in most of the off road Rovers I service.
AB has a kit that has the lock washer and all of the gaskets/seals.

[solihull109]

I do agree with T, I should've asked about the type of use. If a daily driver that gets very little off road use other than an occasional dirt road, then c.v. grease, but if you do wheel the truck often then 90wt

[pushngo]

I am with TG I only use Lucas 85/90 and I would check the wheel bearings to make sure they are not too loose and the swivel ball tension before I went to the bother of changing the seals If the swival balls are rusted changing the seals won't fix it for long If you need swival balls I have some around amd I also have a new set of seals that I bought and found it was one of these other problems.

[Trevor]

Thanks for the input, it gives me some ideas of what to look for.

Sorry, I should have mentioned it's not a DD. I had already looked into what to put back in and had pretty much found that 90wt was the way to go. That decision appears to be unanimously confirmed for off road use.

Randy- I'll let you know if I need any of those parts once I get a chance to examine things more closely.

Thanks again,

TII

[Trevor]

Ok, I pulled my hub tonight. The hub adjusting nut was only finger tight (i actually removed it with just my fingers), the workshop manual says it should be torqued to 61nm. Could this have allowed play, taking tension off of the seals, allowing them to leak? I can see how this would allow the grease seal to leak, but can't quite see the connection to an oil leak... but I'm a rookie with this stuff, so any info would be a big help. I ran out of daylight (no room in the shop at the moment) to look at swivel pins. Will wear on the swivel pins be obvious? What do I need to look for?

Thanks, sorry for all of the questions.

-TII

[pushngo]

The swivel pins should be fine you need to check the preload on the swivel balls, drag when they turn, you adjust this by adding or removing shims under the pin. There is a measurement but I just make sure there is drag on the knuckle when you move it. Remove shims to increase drag.

[rvrsrvc]

Give me a call, maybe we can get together over the weekend to take a look.