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Thread: Strange Rover rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
    Posts
    21,130

    Default Strange Rover rebuild

    I figure it is time to start a thread to get some discussions going in the range rover section here on my slow progress with my rebuild. I'm basically trying to make it so I don't break down every time I drive it. However, despite the unbelievable number of times it has broken it has always eventually made it home under it's own power.

    A rebuild on the "Strange Rover" is actually a challenge of a different sort because I don't want to make it perfect necessarily so i'm not doing anything cosmetically on the vehicle except for fixing rust and replacing the knackered rear bumper. It has a lot of quirks, even for an older rover, and I don't really want to get rid of all of them - just the really bad ones . I plan to create new quirks wherever possible as long as they are mostly good. And since I'm doing as much of the work as I can myself with used/rebuilt parts, I'm sure this will not be a challenge nor intentional most of the time.

    My plans for 2012 roughly involve the following:

    300 Tdi install
    R380 install
    LT230 w/ crawler box install

    new suspension bushings
    rust repair on the body
    de-gunk and waxoyl the underside
    eliminate vague steering
    new brakes (rebuild calipers, new master, brake booster, rotors/pads, flex lines, etc)
    fix all of the somewhat necessary electrical accessories (power windows, seats, etc)
    and about a million little things
    and maybe new tires if my bank account is still functioning
    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
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    21,130

    Default

    I bought the engine, transmission, and an install kit from Jim at Redhawk Rovers. He was great to deal with, low pressure, and very honest. It all arrived on a pallet from Colorado just before Christmas last year. Jim replaced the timing belt before shipping it and I did all the seals (minus head gasket), water pump, etc, etc after it arrived with the kit he sent. I did not rebuild the engine - I just replaced all the wear and tear stuff and I added a EGR port in the exhaust manifold and oil pressure sender so i can have a real gauge.

    I rebuilt the transmission with new bearings and synchros and replaced a few other worn looking parts. It would definitely have worked as-is for a while but I'll feel better knowing it has been gone through because there was some wear on parts. Achcroft was great for getting all the internal bits though shipping from England will set you back a bit. Rebuilding an R380 is within the ability of anyone with patience, creativity, a good tool set, press, and some gear pullers. You'll also want a camera so you have a chance at putting it back together afterward and the shop manual so you do it right.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
    Posts
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    Default

    I got the LT230 from Randy a while back and had intentions of installing it "right away" but it didn't happen for reasons I don't remember. While it was on the bench I decided to open it up and see what things looked like and was happy to find everything in good working order. I re-sealed it and added the under drive from Ashcroft which was easy to install onto the transfer case but will require some mods to the floor pan to fit. The shifter can be made or bought. I simply re-used a borg warner t-case shifter I had on a shelf with a few very minor mods.

    Taking the LT230 apart to re-seal it (not replacing bearings/gears) is rather easy if you have it out of the car for whatever reason. Ashcroft recommended I use RTV and new input/output seals rather than the gasket kit which makes it a pretty inexpensive undertaking as well as long as you don't add an under drive at the same time.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
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    Default

    Right now, the old V8/auto/borg warner drivetrain is still nestled in my frame but it won't be for too much longer. I have the interior stripped out for various reasons and the fuel system is getting a makeover to fix what is broken/deteriorating and to convert it for use with the diesel systems. To convert it, you need to remove the neck-reducing-insert thing in the filler pipe, remove the electric in-tank fuel pump and replace with a tube, replace the stock in-line filter with tube, and block off the line running from the charcoal canister toward the back of the truck. Then you're ready to hook up the diesel parts.

    I'd seriously recommend that people consider making the rear floor pan removable if you have an old rangie. The access to the under side is amazing! If you don't have carpet like me, just drill out the two dozen or so rivets that hold it in place and replace them with hex head 1/4-14 stainless steel sheet metal screws from McMaster for quick access on the trail.
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    Last edited by Frank84; 05-03-2012 at 08:24 PM.
    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    West Chester, PA
    Posts
    603

    Default

    Looks good Frank. That floor idea is brilliant.
    '92 Range Rover
    '51 80"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
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    Default

    The broken picture is not mine but I figured I'd pirate someone's idea and I welded a plate on for some extra protection. Supposedly, this is not an issue on the V8 ones because they have thicker, cast clutch forks unlike the thin, stamped Tdi ones.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
    Posts
    21,130

    Default

    Here's a picture of the insert in the filler neck that has to come out. I think some later models and/or disco's have a plastic insert that is easier to remove. Believe me - the metal one was a b*tch!

    Diesel nozzles at gas stations are larger diameter than petrol ones so you can do this or carry a funnel.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  8. #8
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Disco96JSWB View Post
    Looks good Frank. That floor idea is brilliant.
    Thanks - do disco's have the same floor?
    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
    Posts
    21,130

    Default

    I got a used clutch master cylinder still attached to the RHD Disco pedal box from Red Hawk Rovers. Rebuilding it only cost about $10 if I remember right and was quick and easy. If the internal bore looks to be in good shape replacement seals should make it good as new. I'm not brave enough to try rebuilding the brake master cylinder yet since it is safety related - I bought a new one of those.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Ringwood, NJ
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    Default

    The install kit I got included an EGR blanking kit. I later removed it and installed the threaded bung for the temperature probe.
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    '89 Range Rover
    '95 D90

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